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Never Take Tea With an Aghori | Jul 21st
On my first trip to India I knew little about sadhus- acestic Hindu holy men. The great fathers are on a personal mission to discover God and peace. They wish to break their perceived infinite cycle of birth and death through ancient rituals such as yoga, pilgrimages and meditation. Soon, I became fascinated with their way of life and had to learn more on my second trip to the country.
There is another sect of sadhu, often ridiculed and detested by the other sadhus. They are the Aghori’s, who’s path to God, peace and insight of the world is gained through extremes and opposites. Aghori sadhus make contact with the dead, meditate on corpses, drink from a human skull and even eat the flesh of the dead all in the name of God. As I’ve come to understand it, there is no clean and unclean, no pure and unpure. The world’s taboos are an illusion which must be overseen. Although they are known to eat human flesh, it does not mean they are murders. It usually comes from already dead bodies, which are numerous along the banks of the Ganges due to the custom funeral ceremonies. I witnessed a number of dead bodies in the river alone on my trip to Benares. Wikipedia states
“The Aghoris of northern India consume the flesh of the dead floated in the Ganges in pursuit of immortality and supernatural powers. Members of the Aghori drink from human skulls and practice cannibalism in the belief that eating human flesh confers spiritual and physical benefits, such as prevention of aging” http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cannibalism
It is also worth mentioning that cannibalism is only a bizarre concept in today’s world, it is actually at the roots of many of our ancestors and ancient religious groups. It’s very difficult for me to explain without someone thinking I have some wee children limbs locked in my freezer, so if you are interested in this kind of thing pick up Dinner with a Cannibal by Carole A. Travis-Henikoff.
It’s a very easy read but also very helpful about understand what role cannibalism has in today’s cultures. Do you take the body and blood of Christ? Amen.
My personal opinion is that the Aghori is living in a completely different world than my own, his mind has been molded to perceive something I have not been raised to accept. I do not feel the practice is wrong.
It took a week or so to track an Aghori sadhu in Benares through word of mouth from the villagers with my translator. There was me and my two great friends Laurent from Paris and Heida from Iceland. We met the Baba (father) for the first time on a riser above a cremation ground, where most Aghori’s chose to live so they have a constant connection with the dead. Sitting across from him keeping my eyes fixed on his body language, I explained to him through my translator that I was on a mission to photograph holy men of various creeds all around the world. The mood was tense and seemed very business-oriented.
“I wish to photograph you if it is true that you are an Aghori”
“Yes”
“Can you prove to me that you are what you say you are?”
“Yes. I have a man’s skull right here in my bag. Don’t you trust me?”
He was serious. We arranged the session to take place at night, away from any villagers or tourists who might overlook the ritual. He agreed but instructed us to gather candles before nightfall to bring with us. I knew this light would be the only light available, and was crucial to my photographs. We arranged a man with a small row boat to take us across the Ganges to the other side toward an abandoned, sandy beach area which is completely flooded during the monsoon season. I asked Baba some questions and found out as much as I could about his past life. He had been an aghori since he was a young child and studied under a guru for many years before leaving on his own path of wandering India from cremation ground to cremation ground. He had taken on a few deciples of his own now, one of which came with us in the boat and spoke broken english, but it was understandable at times.
I was very interested in the practise of “penis yoga”, in which the penis was forced and stretched around a metal shear several times to stretch the nerve endings so that there would be no temptation of breaking an ascetic life. He told me that when he was younger he did have his way with a few young girls, but he will not say a word of it anymore so close to his mother, the River Ganges. Usually I can dig into a person and really make them feel comfortable around me, but I had a very hard time with this man. There was an eerie atmosphere in the air and not even chatter between me and my other traveling friends seemed to break it. He was a very tiny man, but very intimidating. The way he barked orders through rotting teeth at his deciples displayed a real power and authority in his character. Completely naked from head to toe, except the ashes of the dead spread evenly across his body, he seemed immortal and sinister.
We reached the beach on the other side of the Ganges, and I instructed the boatman to come back in two hours. He was confused but desperate for work, so he did as I wished and left me on the bank with the Aghori Sadhu. Trapping yourself on an abandoned island with a cannibal? Priceless. I would either come out with some decent pictures and a war story to tell my grandkids or as a sacrafice to Shiva in baba’s stomach.
I was worried that the candles I had gotten were not good enough- they were factory made and I thought that in some way the sadhu might detest this and refuse any pictures. However, he was very serious about everything. He would not let me or the other two friends enter the circle of fire we created with my shoes- even when his eyes were closed in meditation. I guess it didn’t matter.
The light was very hard to work with, and most of my images came out blurry due to the lack of light, but I did manage to get a select few images. After some time, the sadhu began the penis yoga. It looked very painful to me, but he did not show a wince of frusteration as he coiled it several times around the metal stake. A snake constricting it’s prey. Looking through the lense I had a few “what the fuck am I doing?” moments in my head but my thirst for knowledge and experience took control.
“You have broken your trust, englishman” A pause, and shift in his manner. “Will you join me for tea tonight in a few hours?” “Hey you no come for chai last night” I can never be sure as to whether or not the man was telling the truth, or just trying to scare me. I did not feel any intentions that harsh. I could be wrong. Of course the “poison” could have been refering to something else, such as alcohol, marijuana, or hashish, as Aghori’s are known to ingest in all of these regularily. Nevertheless, I trust my instinct and believe it is true when the villiagers say “never take tea with an aghori.”
I found myself not eaten and in a very good mood when the boatman arrived perfectly on time. We headed back to the other side of the river. Coming out of the boat, Baba asked quietly something to my translator. It was not put back in english to me, so I knew right away it was about money. A holy man begging or asking for money in the first world is extremely taboo, but one must understand this is how a sadhu supports himself- through charity. I agreed to give him an amount for his time, as well as some coins from Canada. However, I refused to give him a large amount of money as this would hurt him more than help. I do like to pay people for their time but do not like to bribe for photo opportunities. The baba took his gaze off my translator and looked me straight in the eye, growled and paced away angrily before taking any money. It didn’t take much to set him off. I followed him to the spot where I first negotiated with him.
“I said you can take the money, it is for your time”
…
“I will return here to meet you, yes”
“For chai?”
“Yes, I’ll think about it”
Walking back along the gachts that night, certain things entered my brain. I sensed something was very wrong and decided not to visit him again. The next morning I retraced my steps and walked past the cremation ground. I saw a familiar face, the deciple of Baba’s that spoke broken english.
“I had some things I had to take care of”
“well can I tell you it is good thing you not come again. Baba Ji has make for you.. euuhh how you say? posen”
“Poison?”
“Yes, poison.”
Joey L
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Adam Swords:(Jul 21st - 17:40) That´s a fascinating story Joey, I began to read this feed on my iPhone but the images were a little too large for the screen to be properly viewed so I re-read it when I returned to my office as I was interested to find out how the shoot went. It´s always interesting to find out the story behind the picture - I had seen this photograph in your portfolio and it struck me as one of your most impressive. But just viewing the photo left me with a much different impression of Baba that after I read the story. From a technical viewpoint, I´m curious as to how you managed with the low lighting for this shoot. I know you use prime lenses, but would you care to share some of the information about the gear and techniques you employed for making the most out of this not-so-ideal situation? Keep up the good work, as a 19 year old photographer myself you are a source of real inspiration. Adam.
Michelle Jones:(Jul 21st - 23:04) Dude, you get yourself in some serious stuff. Well done for not going along with the chai business. Reading that made me feel all spooked. Oh, and as ever, great pics!
Joey L:(Jul 21st - 23:21) Hey Adam. I was using a 50mm 1.4 prime lense (and shooting at a 1.4 - 2.2 aperture most of the time to let in the most light) at around ISO 800. My shutter was around 1/60th. I didn´t have a tripod so I used my knee as a brace, which is why you see me having some really sandy knees in the last photo...
Jill Beninato:(Jul 22nd - 00:03) Thanks for sharing the details behind this shoot. When I first saw these photos months ago on your website I was captivated by the images...they made me think about what I held sacred in my life and how spiritually empty our culture has become...I am not a fan of organized religion, but I am often intrigued by rituals, ceremonies and religious archetypes. Your images are truly inspiring!
Misty:(Jul 22nd - 11:08) Hmm, I kinda think the guy was serious about giving you "poison"! I too wondered about the story behind these photos when I first saw them and honestly, the first time I saw the last pic with you and baba, I thought that you looked a bit "unsure".  Now I know why I thought that.  Great story!
Adam Swords:(Jul 22nd - 13:10) Thanks for that Joey, I look forward to the next update.
Jason The Saj:(Jul 23rd - 22:36) Okay, that was a bit of a trip... Glad to know you´re still with us. I think I need to print this out, and go find a campfire and read it. This will send more shivers down the spine than most stories. So is how does Romanian/Moldavian chai compare to Indian chai?
Tammy:(Jul 30th - 00:16) I hung on every word you wrote and this is the first time visiting your blog. That was quite the one in a lifetime experience you had and cannot wait to read more of your blog ! Love your work !
HumpreyCogay:(Jul 30th - 07:43) Hello Joey, What a great adventure you got there.... Hope you can visit My country, Philippines Soon.... Hope to attend one of your workshops... God Bless
Jenn Shannon:(Jul 30th - 15:26) I found you through Rangefinder mag.  I am in awe struck by your passion.  As a photographer I sat with my mouth gapping wide open while viewing your work and reading your blog... blown away doesn´t even begin to touch how I feel.  Now as a mother all I can think about are all nights your own mother must spend biting her nails worried to death about you...  Though asking you to stop doing what you are doing for the sake of safety would be the same as to ask you to stop breathing.
Mike Ward:(Aug 03rd - 21:08) Joey I have been a raving fan of yours for awhile and am constantly inspired by your magnificent work... I am a fairly new amateur and can only hope to be half as good as you before I perish.. I will then feel as though I did something with my life.. Thank you for sharing your work and I always look forward to your updates.. Regards    
Angie Atkinson:(Aug 05th - 12:24) Was referred to your website by another where one of the togs is a huge huge fan... wanted to see your work and am really glad I did... your work is an inspiration - you venture into areas where a lot of people wouldn´t dream of going, for that thank you... for the write-up and inside scoop on how you got there tells a complete story and makes one understand some of who the Aghori are. Nice to know these images were shot with my favourite lens :D
Michael G. Murphy:(Aug 10th - 04:28) Has anyone bought Joey´s DVD´s and how are they?  Honest only.   Thanks, Mike.
Michael G. Murphy:(Aug 10th - 04:28) Has anyone bought Joey´s DVD´s and how are they?  Honest only.   Thanks, Mike.
Sasha Nava Rahman:(Aug 14th - 07:10) This is Brilliant, Joey.
Wellington:(Aug 15th - 07:17) Hi Joe, how u doing? I am also a photographer (lame, by the way) and great fan of yours. I don´t know if you are aware of that, but here in Brazil there are plenty of people who admire your work and consider you a strobist master. You have a brilliant present and will have a legendary future!
Karen Alexander:(Aug 17th - 09:23) Wow! Joey what an amazing experience! So glad to hear you didn´t go back for tea. Thanks for sharing your journey with us, wishing you saftey on the rest of your trips. I am really enjoying the experiance through your photo´s and words.
Karen Alexander:(Aug 17th - 09:23) Wow! Joey what an amazing experience! So glad to hear you didn´t go back for tea. Thanks for sharing your journey with us, wishing you saftey on the rest of your trips. I am really enjoying the experiance through your photo´s and words.
David Lazar:(Aug 18th - 15:12) Hi Joey - I´ve been following your great work over the last few days, which has lead me to this blogspot.  This read was completely captivating - and is the best short travel story I´ve read.   Hope the workshop with Manny goes well. Cheers from Australia.
Hang Lu:(Aug 28th - 06:52) Wow...you have good instincts, and are wonderfully courageous. I think it is really amazing how you managed to go through all those life-risking moments, I admire you very much. I´m only a bit younger than you (15) and I too dream of travels to meet those who are unknown by the commoners... Wish you luck, and most of all, wish you success. -Hang Lu.
Elena Hernandez:(Nov 16th - 15:59) Like most folks here have said...wow!  You were good to follow your intuition on this one!  The images are amazing and love that you enlightened us on the rituals you had to do and live while photographing the "holy" men on your quest to gain knowledge...I have learned a lot through your experience!  Thanks! Stay Safe!
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Shoshonee:(Nov 29th - 05:43) These photos are very eye catching. And they are enlightening as well. Even though the lighting gave you trouble you've managed to take excellent pictures. And i personally find the lighting in these to really set the mood of the ritual practices.
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vicky:(Feb 04th - 20:32) yes Joey l, villagers were right, never take a tea with a aghori it\'s not poison they add to tea but they mixed liquid of a human brain, so your brain could be free from the attraction of society and social things. that\'s why they are too much angry and sharp minded.