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Joey L in Ethiopia – The North 2/2 | Feb 03rd
Lalibela
The past week has been spent in Lalibela. Today was a relatively good day, in fact so good that it almost seems as if something is wrong because of the troubles of the early week…. My soft box has stirred quite the controversy in this small “holy” place. The main ‘priests’ at the tourist office wanted $1000 birr to enter the church complex. This is to go straight into their pockets, I’m sure. There are no rules about this equipment, and they wish to rip me off. I refuse to pay this, not because I don’t have it, or I’m cheap, but because I’m taking a hit for all future photographers who wish to shoot there… No God damned way I say in this place of worship. We got the police, complained, and demonstrated the equipment to the main tourist office whom of which had no problem with the soft-box and wished us well for bringing it and promoting tourism in the area. They phoned the priests at the ticket office and still they refused to listen to their superiors, or the police. That’s how this country goes. The police are more like crossing guards. So we’ve been sneaking into the church complex, getting kicked out, returning, arguing, bribing, etc. Our luck has been much better outside Lalibela in the remote rock churches. Here, the priests and monks are generally cooler, not money-driven and more easy going. They are happy to see us.
Above image- Lalibela’s armed guards finally discovery my “entry ticket” is really just a potato chip receipt.
Yemrehanna Kristos church
Joey- “This is kinda like Indiana Jones, isn’t it?”
Ryan “This is probably one of the weirdest things I’ve ever seen in my life”
Today at Yemrehanna Kristos church, I photographed a monk surrounded in corpses. He explained to me they were pilgrims, mostly from Jerusalem. There were over 10 000 skeletons at one point, but now it is hard to say since they have been decaying over the years. Whatever the debated number, I can describe it only as wading out with my camera into a sea of skeletons. I tried my best to be respectful and not go into the parts the monk warned me not to, staying on wooden boards and tombs… but every once in awhile I would hear the crunch of a bone under the pressure of my weight, or feel my hand brush against the smoothness of a human skull. The monk was very patient with me, and I feel I captured a moment in time I never thought I’d see in my life.
I am assulted by fleas every night and despite my efforts with the flea spray, I still get quite a few bites.
Abuna Aron
We trekked to a place I heard about by word of mouth and was not in any guidebooks. It is called Abuna Aron, and is known to be a remote cave church lived in by three monks. The most notable point about the church is that it has a mysterious beam of light which shines down for a few minutes a day only. It is located in the roof of the cave and allows light in, but yet no rain water ever leaks in. The local villagers see it as an extremely holy place for this reason, and worship there. It was extremely difficult to reach. We drove many hours from Lalibela to the nearest spot we could then walked across 2 mountains and a valley (with all the equipment) and made it to the church. With my luck, the light beam was shining at it’s strongest point and we had about thirty minutes to shoot there. I shot a shot a real young deacon there, who was extremely interesting and got along with very well.
Debre Damo
Today we had a great day shooting at Debre Damo. It is located up a cliff face in which you must climb up a 17 meter rope being pulled on a cow hide rope by a monk. Every year at least someone dies, says Anteneh. This year, it wasn’t me. The monks were totally chill and I got some great photos outside the church on the cliff face. No women are allowed, not even female goats or cows. The funniest part of the day was when Ryan asked “wait… how do they get all these cows up here?” Anteneh said “rope” We didn’t believe him so a visiting priest (not a monk, obviously) showed up a cell phone video of a cow being hoisted up by rope. Hilarious. I love Debre Damo, I would very much enjoy to visit again.
Abuna Yemata Guh
Visiting the rock church Abuna Yemata Guh is one of those experiences I will never forget. It was probably the most grueling climb out of all the Monk’s homes we have visited. There were no ropes to help us up like Debre Damo, and 90 degree rock walls several meters
high to climb with only small toe-holds to hold onto. As you can imagine after a climb like this, the reward is once you finish. An other-worldy view of two enormous cliffs to both our right and left, surrounding us. When I see things like this, I always know I will never be able to capture their awe in pictures or film, so I always make a point to sit down and soak it in greedily for myself.
You know it’s really different here in the North. Instead of having too many subjects in a general area, you have very little subjects you must find yourself. It’s like the ancient Chinese legends of climbing a mountain to find a wise man, except you have to do it with pounds and pounds of equipment. Some times you climb these huge cliffs for hours to find a little wee man living in a cave, humbled to see you.
“Hey Joey, you know how in movies when they show a desert, they always insert that hawk screech sound. Yeah, well I just heard that but for real,” says Ryan. The hawks swoop past our head.
“Hey Joey, I found some skulls down here! Check it out” Screams Ryan from the other side.
The wind picks up, I hop over a ledge and admire the remains of pilgrims and holy men who have visited the site years before me. Perhaps one day when I’m fed up with the industry, tired and weathered I will come back here an old man. It will take me even longer to get up the rock face, but I will eventually make it. I will sit in the same spot I did when I was 19 years old. Perhaps I won’t ever come down, and my skull too will rest there.
Abba Yohannis
Today the realization came to me that I would be taking no more photos on this trip. We finished the last day of shooting at Abba Yohannis, a monks church located halfway up a mountain. Our driver had said “but why do you want to visit Abba Yohannis, not many people are going there…” That’s exactly why I want to visit Abba Yohannis! I thought the place was spectacular and photogenic. We gave the monk a ride into town in our minibus after the photo shoot so he can visit the market. I interview him in the vehicle and probe him with questions about his life. On the way we pass an old tank frozen in time from an Ethiopian war.
After we drove right back to Aksum to catch out plane into Addis Ababa. Then we killed some time being jerks, and here I am on the plane now. My writing is messy because we are taking off.
Epilogue by Ryan
As the trip is coming quickly to an end (5 days left) and the countdown until we are home gets smaller and smaller, I notice myself making a conscious effort each day to try and “take it all in” as much as I can. I notice the new things/ways of life that Joey and I love started to grow accustom to. Things that a month ago would have been something to quiver or laugh over and now it’s just an every day to day experience. It’s funny to say but we both agree we will probably have much more culture shock returning home than living here in Ethiopia. I can’t get over how used to being stuck in “traffic” I am now due to a herd of cattle, a group of monkeys or a gathering of nomads rather than a 30 car pile up or road construction. Even the small every day things like bathing and using the toilet will be a shock to our systems upon arriving home. I mean, no more washing in a river with the Mursi tribe? Or hopping out of the car on the road hoping to find a nice bush to shit behind? Although the comforts of home will be an easy, welcome change they will be quite a shock im sure.
– Ryan
We board the plane and say goodbye to Anteneh. I tell him I will miss him, and I mean it. Everything is surreal as our little taxi heads to the airport down the same streets we feared when we first drove down them almost 2 months ago. Now they are like home and we’ve grown used to the sights, it will be our home that shocks us now.
Our plane stops over in Amsterdam at 5:30am in the morning, we have an 8 hour stop over but it’s not spent in the airport. It’s not spent smoking dope or getting with Red Light District women either, we meet our good friend Will (you might recognize him from the Moldova blog post). God answers my prayers and we find a Mcdonald’s and wait patiently for it to open…
The food tastes so good in my mouth, but it isn’t as great as I thought it would be. For a moment the craving was satisfied, but then another something inside me changed and grew unsatisfied… This was much deeper and more powerful than a fast food craving. I realized I would be taking no more pictures, and the trip was over. I’d rather have a bowl of rice in Ethiopia over this shit food any day.
Pleasantly yours,
Joey L
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Khayyam Khan:(Feb 04th - 09:54) Joey, I commend you greatly.  All that you have done on this trip is inspiring. Your journals are very well written and truly convey a sense of outlandishness (if that´s a word). Most of all I´m glad you didn´t water it down by glorifying your expectations. You reported on the actual needs and wants of the tribal people in this day and age. The photos are, needless to say, great. It requires a genuine person to gain the trust of all people, foreign and domestic, and this you have done. Please pass on my respect to Ryan and all that had a part in making this happen. Thank you for bringing another part of the world into view and congratulations on a successful trip.
Michelle:(Feb 04th - 11:52) I´m glad you all got home safe, it sounds like a great trip, one to remember definitely! Thank you for being honest with us who read this blog, the truth aint pretty but at least it´s good. It is a shame that the tribal peoples have been corrupted by money but that´s the way of the world. I think I´d be more surprised if they hadn´t. Michelle.
Milan Josipovic:(Feb 04th - 13:46) Great stuff Joey . Congratulation I knew you are going to do it right
Jason The Saj:(Feb 04th - 16:30) "The past week has been spent in Lalibela." Interesting, my old hometown had an ethiopian restaurant by that name. I used to eat there but did not know it was a geographic point. *** Love the photo journey.  And am curious to know where next. Having seen a few shots my Aunt has sent from working as a missionary over in Papau New Guinea, I think you DEFINITELY need to add that on your list of place to be in the near future. Would love to see you do Papau New Guinea, and the aborigines of New Zealand and Australia
Juliano Dasilva:(Feb 04th - 22:50) Joeyl, what a nice trip uh? I wondering what made you go to those places. My girlfriend always wanted to go but I never got interested. Very nice indeed!
rhys logan:(Feb 05th - 08:22) absolutely ridiculously amazing adventure mate i dont think any other photographer could have captured it as uniquely as you have. i have been checking for your update for such a long time, trying not to have expectations, but whatever they were, you blew them away man :)
Scott Scully:(Feb 05th - 18:10) Just a few simple words from a simple man in the UK Joey... Your work is simply breathtaking and truly inspirational to an aspiring photographer like myself. Your control and use of  light is nothing short of amazing. Congratulations to all involved on a moving and honest series and on a successful trip back home.
andrew cahill:(Feb 06th - 08:46) Love ya shit mate. Was awesome read.
Kirk Smith:(Feb 07th - 06:02) looks like the trip was well worth it joey, amazing shots. What lighting equipment were you carrying around though?
Phil Hewitt:(Feb 09th - 01:30) Joey, I´ve been following your work for the last 2 years. I was born november 17th 1989 and it was amazing to think you´re just a few weeks older than me. I´m totally inspired by your work and I´m heading off on my own adventure soon, I´ve just bought a 1Ds Mark 3 Which I can´t wait to start playing with. I´d love to know what lighting you used in etheopia, I tried looking at that photo of Ryan setting up the light in the softbox to work out what it was but I can´t Any hints ;)?
Joshimodo:(Feb 09th - 04:25) 20 or so years from now, I hope to be reading an autobiography by yourself, filled with the people you´ve encountered, situations involved with, and stories you´ve collected over the years. Would be as interesting and thought-provoking as this blog. :)
Milan Josipovic:(Feb 09th - 11:26) I think DVD tutorial no. 2 on lighting and post will be great . Using this material
Matt Vardy:(Feb 10th - 23:43) Everytime I visit the site Joey, you´ve got me rethinking my life completely. Thank you, so inspiring. The techniques your daring to use makes me smile and remember the risks we used to take when we were younger - Your killing it bud! I ran into Ryan downtown a month or so ago, was sucha  surprise. Hopefully see you sometime soon. Cheers -mv.
Kiel Harvey:(Feb 11th - 20:34) Just have to say I love your work, truly amazing and inspiring.  I am about to embark on a round the world backpacking trip based on a photo idea and I was wondering what you usually bring for your lighting and camera equipment for a travel shoot, as Im having a lot of trouble trying to put together my kit and I love your lighting techniques. Thanks so much I really appreciate it!
Kiel Harvey:(Feb 11th - 20:34) Just have to say I love your work, truly amazing and inspiring.  I am about to embark on a round the world backpacking trip based on a photo idea and I was wondering what you usually bring for your lighting and camera equipment for a travel shoot, as Im having a lot of trouble trying to put together my kit and I love your lighting techniques. Thanks so much I really appreciate it!
Rozzy:(Feb 13th - 07:53) I´m so blessed by so many things in my life and every time I think about you I feel such warmth in my heart.  You are an inspiring young man with substance and depth and you just get "it"!!  I was having a conversation with someone the other day and she loved your photos but her love of Africa and its people is huge and she was worried about exploiting them.. I assured her that would not be the case and I knew before even reading your blog that is something you would have considered and painstakingly would have avoided to the best of your power.  Reading your blog proved that to me yet again. You are an extraordinary young man who balances the goofiness of youth with an insight beyond that of most people in society these days.  Amazing photos and such wonderful stories.. thank you for sharing.. love ya xxoo
ronnie Ruiz:(Mar 01st - 06:46) Dude, you rock. what an experience. tomorrow's day drive for myself will be much easier to get started now! thanks for sharing all this ....
Barbie Lindsay:(Mar 05th - 22:46) What a waste of photographic opportunities. it's all me me me. i wish that i had had the same opportunity as you, i would have photographed every minute and every day of the lives of the people there.
Bram Timmer:(May 29th - 07:31) Well it's a first for me to come across your work. Rather than the usual, me looking through photos, I decided to check out your blog and ended up reading about your Ethiopia adventures. Very entertaining read. Wish you & your assistant(s) all the best in the future globe trotting.
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