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A Day with the Gypsy King of Moldova | Jul 14th
Now it’s time to fullfill my promise of keeping ya’ll updated on the madness that ensues my travels. This one is from my trip to Moldova (small country between Romania and Ukraine). I was there for a more serious larger project with the Salvation Army and Ross from flosites, but that’s another post altogether and is still in the works.
After you read the story, check out the video of… that same story. (It will be like when you read a book before you watch the movie, and your imagination ended up filling in the holes better than the director.) To make you read first, I’ve put the video down at the bottom. If you are asshole you may scroll down and just watch it instead of reading, but I ensure you it will be like taking a helicopter to the top of a mountain instead of spending the time climbing it.
Weird things like this story happen to me, and I just take photos of them. I do not credit myself for the subjects or situations in any personal travel portraits I take, because unlike a painting, I did not make them out of nothing. (My approach is very posed and contrived of course. I’m happy about this.) They are people that already exist that I have only interpreted and perceived, framed and lit them, I did not create them. Maybe God did, or maybe an array of evolutions in chaotic order did. I don’t know. However the most important thing is that I do put myself out there in the world with a camera and hope that things happen. Most times, they do.
On our last day in Moldova, we decide to take a drive to Soroca, the “Gypsy city” of Moldova where they attempt to self-govern themselves with their own leaders away from the Moldovian government.
Christi our translator informs me that every gypsy I would like to photograph has no problem with it, but we must first get permission from “the King of the Gypsies.” I’m trying to think of what a Gypsy King might look like or if they are even telling the truth that such a man exists… I picture an old man with a large beard hoarding away the largest pile of junk in his metal-roofed palace.
We are pointed the direction many times and eventually find the King’s house, which is clearly the biggest house in the area and is made of bright red brick. Although the size is stunning, it still keeps some loose gypsy style with a bunch of broken cars and junk scattered on the front lawn. One has a bullet whole in the front windshield…
Some younger kids playing on the street warn us not to go near the palace. They insist there are huge dogs that will rip your face off if you get too close. I see the dogs they are talking about- rot whilers! They are huge and we don’t go near them, but instead wait while a servant goes inside the palace to ask permission for us.
Will peaks his head over the gate-
“I think I just saw a guy with a huge white beard”
It’s true. A huge Gypsy man with a beard like moses with a belly like Santa Claus walks forward to the gates wearing a tweed suit jacket. He doesn’t seem so menacing anymore now that I can see him and my imagination isn’t filling in the holes of what a Gypsy Baron of Moldova might be like. I shake his hand and I bargain between him and my translator and inform him of my travel across Moldova and Romania. I want to photograph all kinds of people and the Gypsies fascinate me because of their history and way of life. I steer the conversation away from what I originally was after to ask permission to photograph the people of his city, instead I want to photograph him!
After some classical bargaining and convincing, he agrees and we are led into his house. He walks ahead of us as me and Will get the lighting shit ready. I want to move fast and light so we bring the backpack with the power pack in it and two lights only, a 1600 watt and 800 watt. We don’t really know what to expect and are not sure if we’ll get jumped, robbed, or attacked and killed by angry gypsy’s hiding in the bushes, or even worse- gypsy cursed! It’s all pretty light hearted though and I’m really excited for the chance that is unfolding. The Moldovian’s that I was staying with have me scared of these people, they are like the monster under the bed that mothers tell their kids will get them if they aren’t good. It’s completely silly and untrue but I’m still scared.
As time progresses and we get to know the Gypsy King, we relax. He turns out to be a totally cool guy and shows his extremely in-character junky treasures like a bunch of ceramic sculptures, swords from all around the world (out of no where he pretends to stab our translator, I almost shit my pants) and a collection of musical instruments. He can play them all. He screams “JOOSSSEEPPPHHHHH!!!!!”at the top of his lungs into his piano to show the nice harmonic echo it gives off. My name Joey is not very understood or pronounced in foreign places so I always introduce myself as Joseph or Yusuf. He bangs out tunes on the piano, rocks out on the accordian and sings deep from the belly.
After the lunch his servants prepared outside was ready, we all sat around a table to drink chai tea and eat bread the Baron had cooked himself. But of course none of this before a traditional shot of Cognac. Throughout the meal he keeps trying to get me to drink more and more- “Ey! the russian way… drink tea and cognac at same time and you not get too drunk. Don’t worry!!!” We talked over lunch about his job and the different struggles he comes across in broken French and translated Romanian until we are innterupted by a pair of street cats fighting on his lawn. He looks over at the animals with disgust and says “eyy, one minute” and dissapears into his home quicky.
A few minutes later he comes out on his porch holding a huge air rifle, aims without hesitation, and shoots the cat. He explodes with laughter and Will and I can’t help but laugh in nervous confusion and the absolute ridiculousness of the whole situation. We start taking turns shooting stuff with his pellet gun and he sets up some bottle targets around the house.
Later he shows his his 9 mm handgun and some hand tricks, but explains he never really uses guns and doesn’t like them. It is sunset now and t
ime to hit the road for the 4 hour drive back to Chisinau, He brings out his accordian and plays it on the driveway while I take some photos. I got my favourite picture at the very end. The King’s home is undergoing some serious renovations and there are many rusted old metallic walls left over beside the broken cars. I get him to pose with his accordian against the wall, he tries to act bored but I know he is enjoying himself and loving every minute of getting photographed and so much attention. After we say our goodbyes and he wishes us back any time. The whole time his wife is screaming from inside the house “BRING THAT GUN BACK HERE! WHAT ARE YOU DOING?” He don’t listen- He’s the gypsy king. That means he can do whatever the hell he wants
Stay true
Joey L
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Paul:(Jul 14th - 09:47) I hope you wiped your fingerprints off that gun! 8) You Rock Yusuf!
Ken Romero:(Jul 14th - 18:49) Nice work and great story. Had a Gypsy funeral of a Gypsy Queen in my hometown when I was growing up.  Wish I would have had a camera then!
Chelsea:(Jul 14th - 22:32) Wow, I love it.  You could probably make a book out of your Blog alone!
Michael G. Murphy:(Jul 14th - 22:37) Joey, Makes me wish I was young again an out there with you.  Enjoy and experience it all.   You keep it real.   Mike from Connecticut
Claudiu:(Jul 15th - 01:04) wow, so you´ve come to Europe... interesting story, nice pictures ! when should I expect a visit from you in Romania? :D
Khayyam:(Jul 15th - 04:43) Badass choice of music hahah. The  Ice Cube track was perfect for the gypsy vs. cats scene.
neil visel:(Jul 18th - 08:11) is that the Dos Equis Most Interesting Man In The World?
b.k.watkins:(Jul 18th - 10:25) that´s some crazy old man. nice work.   just found your blog, its´ great.  first saw your stuff over at dpc.  i can´t imaging doing some of the things you do.  keep up the great work.  brian
Wills:(Jul 18th - 11:34) I´m still following your travels Joey, great video and cool shots as usual, keep up the good work. Wills uk
Leon:(Jul 18th - 16:16) Amazing pics, that piano one is haunting, love how his eyes fall in the shadows. Keep up the inspiring work!
Dan Rowe:(Jul 18th - 18:13) That is so freakin´ cool.  If I could travel that´s how I´d do it.  Just experience after experience.  
Mihai:(Jul 18th - 18:24) Some research may be needed before doing any such post. You were in the Republic of Moldavia, which was part of the Soviet Union, but the majority of the people are not russians, but "moldavians". Actually they are romanian but they invented the moldavian nation theory a few years ago. There is also a region in Romania that is called Moldavia. Once upon a time both region were under the same rule. In fact, most of the "Republic of Moldavia" was part of Romania between 1918 and 1940, when the Soviet Union (ruled by Stalin) seized it (the parts called Basserabia & Bucovina). See more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moldavian_SSR, http://wapedia.mobi/en/Moldavian_ASSR, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moldova
Richard Juneau:(Jul 18th - 18:46) What do you carry with you for lighting equipment? Type flash, type battery pack or other? Real cool stuff. Never know, though, if some people are completely sane...:)
Joey L:(Jul 18th - 19:08) Richard- The thing that you see in the video is an Alien bees 1600 watt head (a pink one) and one of their vagabond power packs. I use all kinds of different brands for photo shoots because the equipment is usually delivered on set, but for my travel stuff I use this setup because it´s cheap and I´m not afraid to break it! It also works great, of course
Cecile:(Jul 18th - 20:17) HiJoey - great story - love your images...
photog:(Jul 18th - 20:33) Yes Joey L exactly what the world needs-more glorification of thugs and guns. Young kids will be watching this thinking it´s cool to get guns and kill animals and people. Your a good photographer but a real loser as a person.
Dumtiru Tira:(Jul 18th - 21:31) Hey, first of all, you´re a great photographer! Now, permit me to correct you, Moldova is by any means a "Russian" country, ex-soviet yes, Russian, no way! It´s quite offending calling Moldova a Russian country since it´s people are the same that live in Romania(most of them). I was quite surprised to see that you photographed a orthodox priest from Orheii Vechi, I lived most of my life in Orheii Noi and now, 6 years later, i´m comming back. ceers.
Mircea Moldoveanu:(Jul 18th - 21:58) Awesome pictures! Please correct your post. Moldova is not a Russian country. Read Wikipedia before you post geographical/historic stuff. 60+% of people in Republic of Moldova are speaking Romanian. Also not confuse Moldova with Republic of Moldova. They are next to each other because originally were a province. Russia split in to russifing the left side of river Prut.
Mircea Moldoveanu:(Jul 18th - 22:14) @Joel L After 200+ years under Russian ruling it´s normal that the houses are not looking the same. Architecture is not want makes a nation! My grand mother is originaly from R. Moldova and her father was killed by Russians in Siberia. She has to run an establish on the Romanian side of Moldova. Please don´t try to teach me history, I know it, I heard it! If you are a linguist just analise the language, that makes and keep a nation together. It´s sad that USSR managed to make the people of Moldova think that the are not Romanians no more but time and oppression does that.
Joey L:(Jul 18th - 22:29) Hey Micrea and Dumtiru, thanks for the info. I see that I put "russian country" but I did not mean this in a political way and in connection with the USSR. I´ll change that, very good point. and Orheii Vechi is still an amazing place, I doubt the look of the monastaries have changed much in all these years
Joey L:(Jul 18th - 22:58) hey Christopher. I know these things. I was in Moldova on a mission project, this story in Soroca is something that happened on a day off towards the end of my trip. As for "small russian country" please see post below
Jon Van Dalen:(Jul 19th - 03:07) Quite a story and quite a body of work.  I´ve enjoyed your photographs and story posted here.
Steven M:(Jul 19th - 03:49) Hey Joey, Good stuff man. What Lens(es) were you packing during this shoot? Can you give me some advice about how to get my self out there at a young age. Such as managers, travel, Getting to shoot for a magazine, etc. anything advice would help. thanks
Kirk McGirt:(Jul 19th - 19:51) Awesome Joey! In the future i hope i can travel to some to places like that. Do you always have someone to translate for you for wherever country you´re at?
Kun Akos:(Jul 20th - 15:14) in the video he says that he´s the king of the gipsies in the entire  former soviet block. You shouldn´t really be afraid as a canadian (actually, everyone will think you´re american) around here (or anywhere in eastern europe, I think), the worst case is that you´ll be offered drinks ´till you drop... or your equipment gets stolen (still better than a hangover after drinking "tuica") if you´re already around, you could also look into transylvania, travel is cheap here, and there are a lot more adventures like this awaiting ;)
Paul Nelson:(Jul 21st - 06:26) I can see you slowly gaining his trust from the initial handshake. VERY interesting social techniques. A job well done
Joey L:(Jul 21st - 23:25) Steve M- read the FAQ, man! Billy- Moldova is not in Russia.  Kirk- Yes I usually hire a translator. The best ones to get are usually not official guides, but young children (they also usually speak better English than their parents might.) The man you see in the Gypsy King video is actually a church pastor that needed some work. He was awesome.
jose:(Jul 23rd - 16:43) wow. that picture with the acordion is amazing. good job.
Jason The Saj:(Jul 23rd - 22:54) Hey Joey, Just curious, what were you working on with The Salvation Army? I used to do some volunteer work with TSA. And help out with a local soup kitchen.  Also good friends of mine´s family are pretty up there in the organization. So it just piqued my curiosity.
Nat Thompson:(Jul 24th - 03:25) Hey Jason the saj , I just did five weeks in Thailand at a HIV/AIDS home , its so great to give photos to people who really need them. People think its heroic but really as a photographer you receive so much more than you give... There is so many beautiful aid workers that need help.. one group thats great is Partners in Burma and Thailand. They work with displaced Hilltribe peeps. Check em out. They have a beautiful book . xxnat... ( ps sorry to write so much on someone elses blog...only good intentions ) x  
Steven M:(Jul 26th - 22:50) haha, chill kid! I´ll check the faq then.
Angie Atkinson:(Aug 05th - 12:34) Awesome stuff Joey! As Chelsea says - you could make a blog - so when is the coffee table book being published?
jasmine:(Sep 09th - 14:45) i barely seen this site and the video posted is interesting.. just wandering what tracks were played on that video to moldova.. best to you and your traveling
kathy:(Sep 09th - 22:21) so THAT´S what your day with the king of the gypsies was like.  
Vana:(Sep 12th - 23:12) Hi Joey, You better enjoy this life fully because in my next life, I´m coming back as you!!! Vana
Vana:(Sep 12th - 23:12) Hi Joey, You better enjoy this life fully because in my next life, I´m coming back as you!!! Vana
Elena Hernandez:(Nov 16th - 16:15) He definitely was a character worthy of images....You should post some of the ones he ended up taking of you as well! Those poor kitties....
Dee:(Dec 20th - 01:09) Nice.. I soroca childhood in town, I lived among the Gypsies! They are good people and traditions are very good! I ask if you have a lot of pictures I made in soroca can send it? thank you in advance! Dimitrios